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Hawthorne, Nathaniel, 1804-1864

"Passages from the French and Italian Notebooks, Complete"



May 27th.--We reached Foligno in good season yesterday afternoon. Our
inn seemed ancient; and, under the same roof, on one side of the
entrance, was the stable, and on the other the coach-house. The house is
built round a narrow court, with a well of water at bottom, and an
opening in the roof at top, whence the staircases are lighted that wind
round the sides of the court, up to the highest story. Our dining-room
and bedrooms were in the latter region, and were all paved with brick,
and without carpets; and the characteristic of the whole was all
exceeding plainness and antique clumsiness of fitting up. We found
ourselves sufficiently comfortable, however; and, as has been the case
throughout our journey, had a very fair and well-cooked dinner. It
shows, as perhaps I have already remarked, that it is still possible to
live well in Italy, at no great expense, and that the high prices charged
to the forestieri at Rome and elsewhere are artificial, and ought to be
abated. . . . .


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