Their superiors know what men they are,
and calculate upon their getting a living by just these means. And,
indeed, the custom-house and passport regulations, as they exist in
Italy, would be intolerable if there were not this facility of evading
them at little cost. Such laws are good for nothing but to be broken.
We now began to ascend again, and the country grew fertile and
picturesque. We passed many mules and donkeys, laden with a sort of deep
firkin on each side of the saddle, and these were heaped up with grapes,
both purple and white. We bought some, and got what we should have
thought an abundance at small price, only we used to get twice as many at
Montanto for the same money. However, a Roman paul bought us three or
four pounds even here. We still ascended, and came soon to the gateway
of the town of Acquapendente, which stands on a height that seems to
descend by natural terraces to the valley below. . . . .
French soldiers, in their bluish-gray coats and scarlet trousers, were on
duty at the gate, and one of them took my passport and the vetturino's,
and we then drove into the town to wait till they should be vised.
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