Its good qualities, however, are so evanescent, that
the finer flavor became almost imperceptible before we finished the
flask.
Viterbo is a large, disagreeable town, built at the foot of a mountain,
the peak of which is seen through the vista of some of the narrow streets.
There are more fountains in Viterbo than I have seen in any other city of
its size, and many of them of very good design. Around most of them
there were wine-hogsheads, waiting their turn to be cleansed and rinsed,
before receiving the wine of the present vintage. Passing a doorway,
J----- saw some men treading out the grapes in a great vat with their
naked feet.
Among the beggars here, the loudest and most vociferous was a crippled
postilion, wearing his uniform jacket, green, faced with red; and he
seemed to consider himself entitled still to get his living from
travellers, as having been disabled in the way of his profession. I
recognized his claim, and was rewarded with a courteous and grateful bow
at our departure.
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