The interior of the large chapel of the south transept is
very curious, circular at both ends. The choir has three bays in its
rectangle, and five bays in its apse, the latter being separated by
coupled piers outside each other (not touching), of wonderful lightness
and beauty. The double aisle of the choir has a central range of single
columns running all round it, and the effect of the intersection of so
many shafts, columns, and vaultings is perfectly marvellous. There is no
triforium in the choir, but only a pierced parapet under the clerestory
windows, which are filled with fine early glass. There is much good
glass, indeed, throughout the cathedral, and several interesting tombs.'
We quote this description in detail because the cathedral at Coutances
is a rare gem, and possesses so many points of interest to the architect
and antiquary.
The history of Coutances is like a history of the Roman Catholic Church,
and the relics of bishops and saints meet us at every turn. As early as
the third century there are records of its conversion to Christianity;
it has passed through every vicissitude of war, pillage, and revolution,
until in these latter days it has earned the guide-book appellation of
'a semi-clerical, semi-manufacturing, quiet, clean, agreeable town.'
There are about 9000 inhabitants, including a few English families,
attracted here by its reputation for salubrity and cheapness of living.
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